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Usually the first thing a new fly fisherman does is to look for a new fly rod. The problem is that there is so much information out there and so many different types and sizes of rods that a beginner can get confused and frustrated very quickly. Here I’ll attempt to give you the basic knowledge of these terms and what to look for in purchasing you’re first fly rod.

A quick note
Please do not jump into your first purchase too quickly. Be informed. Once you have read through these pages you will be equipped with the knowledge you'll need to make an informed decision on the purchase of your fly rod. By the way, even experienced anglers will find these pages quite useful as well.

So, after you have read this page, come back here and check out the Orvis Fly Rod Selector to let the Orvis folks help you in deciding which fly rod is right for you. Who better than Orvis, the grand daddy of fly fishing. Orvis has some of the highest quality fly rods available today. Orvis graphite fly rods come with an unprecedented 25 year guarantee.

Cabelas also has a fly rod buyers guide on their website as well. Don't be afraid to check their version out also. My personal favorite for the beginning fly fisherman is Cabelas fly fishing combos. They have a large selection of quality fly fishing combos (fly rod, fly reel and other accessories) at very reasonable prices for those not exactly sure what they need yet.

Ok, let's get right to learning about fly rods. Basically, a fly rod has three functions: Casting - the fly rod allows for the fly line to be cast with power and accuracy. A good fly rod, in combination with good fly casting skills, also allows the fly and fly line to be placed on the water in such a way so as to not spook the fish. Line Control - Once you have your fly out on the water and it is happily floating away, the next function of a fly rod is to provide for line control. A fly rod allows you to have control over the line that is out on the water. Striking and Landing Fish - a fly rod is used to both set the hook on a fish and to fight and land the fish. The fly rod needs to be flexible and strong enough to bend, sometimes under great pressure, without breaking or snapping.

Fly Rod Materials

First let’s talk about the different materials that fly rods are made of today. The three most popular materials are bamboo, fiberglass and graphite, with the graphite rod being the most popular. There are many differing opinions on which is best but the key is to select the one that you feel most comfortable with and can afford.

Graphite

Without a doubt, graphite fly rods are the most popular fly rod today. That’s why I decided to start with them. These rods are the “new kids on the block”. All graphite rods are not equal. For that matter, not all graphite is equal. Graphite is a man-made material and new processes are constantly being introduced but to keep things simple, the biggest difference in these rods is the weight. Generally speaking, the lighter the rod, the more expensive it is (in most cases). The old adage “You get what you pay for” usually applies here. You want to be careful in selecting your rod that you don’t get the least expensive one you find (even for the beginner) because in many cases, this will lead to purchasing another rod in a few short years because of the poor quality of the first rod. When looking at a fly rod, make sure to check the reel seat, guides, grip, etc. to ensure they are all tight and made of a good, quality material so they aren’t breaking down on you shortly after your purchase. On the flip side, I strongly believe that you don’t want to right out and purchase a top of the line rod right out of the gate either until you have had a chance to get some experience under your belt. Then you can go back and look for the rod of your dreams that will last you a lifetime. In terms of price, graphite rods are usually the middle of the road. They’re always less than an equivalent bamboo rod and generally more expensive than an equivalent fiberglass rod. Graphite fly rods are also more forgiving to beginners and allow for both longer and more accurate casts. Additionally, you’ll be thankful for the lighter weight after your first all day adventure on the stream. These features are probably what make the graphite rods so popular.

Bamboo

According to the history books, the first fly rods were made out of bamboo. Believe it or not, these fly rods are still used today by some of the more advanced fly fishermen. Being that these rods are not the obvious choice for beginners, I won’t spend much time on them but let it be known that if you ever run into someone that is fishing with a bamboo rod, there’s a good chance that this person is the benefactor of some rich fly fishing tradition and may have been taught by his/her father or grandfather on a bamboo rod. Today’s bamboo rods are easy to care for. All that’s required is that they are wiped down after each use and polished with a paste style furniture polish before putting away. To store the rod, separate the pieces and keep them in the rod sack inside a protective rod tube and keep it in a climate controlled room (not an attic or a damp basement). Lay the rod tube horizontally to avoid warping. Bamboo fly rods are inherently slow action. They are also quite a bit heavier in comparison to today's lightweight graphite and fiberglass fly rods and despite the high price (I’ve seen these for upwards of $1500), bamboo fly rods are still considered the finest fly rods on the market.

Fiberglass

Fiberglass rods seem to be going the way of the dinosaur. With the introduction of the graphite rod, most people have traded in the heavier fiberglass rods for the lighter and more forgiving graphite rods. Still, fiberglass rods have their benefits, of which the greatest is price. These rods are the least expensive, making them quite appealing to younger fishermen and beginners. Also, fiberglass fly rods seem virtually indestructible. You may crush one in a car door or inadvertently step on one and break it but it is quite unlikely that a fish will ever break one.

What type of fishing will you be doing?

If you’re going to be fly fishing in the ocean or a lake, you won’t want to buy a rod designed for trout as the performance of that rod will be horrible. If you’re fishing for native trout in a small mountain stream, that will be quite a bit different than fishing for Steelhead on one of the tributaries off Lake Erie. Keep this in mind as we continue to step through the selection process.

What type of action should I look for?

Some fly fishermen will go into a long, drawn out explanation and science of what “fly rod action” is. All “action” means is how flexible the rod is. The flex of a fly rod is measured on the back cast. The more the fly rod bends at the end of the backcast the more flexible the fly rod is. The flexibility in a fly rod (or lack thereof) each have their benefits/drawbacks, all depending on what you will be fishing for and where you will be fishing.

There are three main levels of "action" of a fly rod. Fly rods are generally labeled as being "fast action", "medium or moderate action" or "slow action". Let’s discuss what each of these actions mean to you.

Slow Action Fly Rods

Sometimes referred to as a "full flex" rod. A slow action fly rod is a very flexible rod. On the back cast, this rod will be heavily bent. A slow action fly rod is designed to be used for short casts, when using light tippets or when fishing for small fish such as in a small mountain stream. Catching any fish on a slow action fly rod is a blast. It makes fighting a small, 8” trout feel like your fighting a 6 lb steelhead.

Medium or Moderate Action Fly Rods

Sometimes referred to as a mid-flex fly rod. This is the most popular type of fly rod because they can be used in so many different situations. They provide the widest range of performance over a large range of conditions. The medium action fly rod still provides a decent measure of tippet protection when using light tackle while at the same time providing an angler with additional strength in the rod for fighting fish, casting in windy conditions, making longer casts and allowing for excellent precision in casts. Because of these benefits, if an angler can only own one fly rod and they will be fishing in a wide variety of conditions (lots of medium to large rivers, some spring creeks, lakes) then a medium action fly rod is most likely the fly rod of choice.

Fast Action Fly Rods

Sometimes referred to as a tip flex fly rod. With this rod, at the end of the back cast, the tip of the fly rod will be slightly bent but the rest of the rod will be virtually straight as an arrow. This type of fly rod is best when an angler needs to make lengthy casts or will be fly fishing extensively in windy conditions. Casting is also somewhat easier with this rod due to the sheer power of the rod. This type of fly rod is ideal when you will be primarily fishing oceans or lakes. This type of rod is generally not used for trout fishing.

Determine Fly Rod Length

Choosing a fly rod length is a relatively easy decision and quite dependent on where you will be fishing. If you will be fishing a small mountain stream or spring creek with a lot of cover, then a smaller rod will be necessary. On the flip side, if you’ll be fishing medium to large streams and rivers, then a longer fly rod will be in order because it will allow for longer casts and greatly improved line mending. For trout fishing on medium sized rivers or larger, a 9’ or longer rod is generally used. For the largest rivers, a 10’ rod is generally used. On very small rivers or spring creeks, small fly rods in the 7’ to 7.5’ range are generally the most effective and most used.

Fly Line Weights

I’ll talk about fly line weight here because this is also a consideration when purchasing a rod. I’ll also outline the exact same paragraph in the “Lines and Leaders” section as well. Fly rod manufacturers make each fly rod to cast a particular size line, from 1-weight for ultra-delicate fishing to 13 or 14-weight for big-game fishing. Just above the rod's cork handle, or "grip," you should find the rod's recommended line weight, length, and actual weight in ounces.

While reading through the steps in selecting a fly rod you were asked to determine what type of fish you were going after. Well, now is the time you’ll need the answer to that question because it will help determine what type of fly line you’ll select.

Fly lines are measured in weight. The manufacturers have standardized on a numbering system that define fly line weight. The different weights of the fly line are all designed for specific types of fish and fly fishing conditions. The heavier the line weight is, the bigger the flies you can accurately cast and the lighter the line, the smaller the flies you can use. If you don’t accurately match the fly to the fly line and the fly line to the rod, you’ll get poor results and ultimately will become frustrated.

Ok, so which one do we want? Well, once again it all depends on what you'll be fishing for. A summary of recommended line weights for various fly fishing by species is listed below:

Fly Line Weight 1-3: Small trout and any other small fish. Small flies and short casts. Use for areas containing spooky trout and fly sizes generally #16 and smaller. Fly Line Weight 4: Small to medium sized trout and other similarly sized fish. Small flies and medium sized flies. Short to medium-short casts of no more than 40’. Can be used with 2 – 6 lb tippets. Fly Line Weight 5-6: The most versatile of the line weights. Fishes well for all but the smallest and all but the largest trout. Fishes well when using small, medium and larger sized flies (except the larger streamers). Allows for longer casts yet performs short casts well. Works well with tippets of 3 – 10 lb. Has enough line mass to deliver large weighted nymphs to 60 feet and #10 unweighted flies to 90 feet. Fly Line Weight 7-9: Designed for very large trout, Salmon and Steelhead and other similarly sized fish. Used for pitching large streamers and large flies. Longer casts are excellent. Not the best for short casts. Useful in windy conditions. Works well with tippets of 6-12 lb.

Ok, now that you’ve determined what you’re fishing for and know what line weight you’ll need, the next step is matching the fly line up to the fly rod. Fortunately fly rods use the same numbering systems as fly lines do. For example, if you will be using a fly line weight of 5 to fish for medium-sized trout, then you want to get a fly rod that has a weight of 5 as well. See how easy that is? Remember, the fly rod weight should match the fly line weight precisely for the best results.

Recommendations

Remember: Fly Rod Weight = Fly Line Weight = Fly Reel Weight . I know most fly fishermen will tell you that you need multiple rods for all the different scenarios. Well, I’m going to go out on a limb here and tell you how I started. After doing all my research and knowing that I would be fishing both small and large streams but not having a large sum of money to start with, I ended up buying a fly fishing “combo” from Cabelas that included a 9’, 6 weight, 4 piece, medium action graphite rod with case, reel, backing, fly line, leader and a fly box with 14 flies. It was a pretty good deal for under $200 and remains my primary rod for small, medium and even larger Steelhead trout (biggest was about 8 lbs). It wasn’t until just this year (2004) that I broke down and also bought a smaller 7’, 4 weight, slow action/full flex rod for the smaller streams that I’ve grown to love. This type of fly rod will help you maneuver the small streams that have a lot of brush and will allow for delicate and precise casts.

Fly Rods Manufacturers:

Abel Reel - Quality 3- and 4-piece graphite flyrods - Camarillo, CA

Bass Pro Shops - White River and Gold Cup Fly Fishing Rods - Springfield, MO

Cam Sigler Company - 3-Piece Graphite Fly Rods Designed for Travel. Heavy Duty Bluewater Rods - Vashon Island, WA

Clan Fishing Rods Ltd - A comprehensive range of Sea Trout, Salmon and Bonefish rods, all hand made, using the finest materials purchased from various famous fishing countries around the world and then assembled by a master rod builder - Strathspey, Inverness, Scotland

Diamondback - Want to chase BIG fish in BIG water? Need the best rod at the best price? The Diamondback Backwater Series of super-powerful rods are the undisputed kings of the heavy-duty rod world! Designed and made in the US by US anglers, Diamondback delivers! - Cortland, NY

Fenwick - HMX, Fenglass and Eagle series Fly Rods - Spirit Lake, IA

Fin-Nor International - Legendary Tackle Since 1933. Fly Rods & Reels - Wilmington, NC

Fly Logic - Doc Hogan Signature, FL Optimum, FL Premium Plus & FL Premium Fly Fishing Rods - Melba, ID

Gatti Fly Rods - Our goal is to provide you with the most responsive fly rods in the world. We accomplish this by selecting the finest materials available anywhere and create a fly rod that is lighter in the hand, more powerful and yet smoother than any fly rod you've ever had the pleasure to cast. Hand crafted reel seats with exotic woods are combined with the finest hard chrome guides to create a work of art - Vigilio di Concesio, Italy

G. Loomis - A complete line of quality fly rods including the GLX, Trilogy, Nautikos, GL3, Adventure and GL2 series - Woodland, WA

Golden Witch Technologies - Bamboo and graphite fly and spinning rods, rodmaking tools, cane, tubes and cases and more - Hopeland, PA

H.L. Leonard Rod Co. - Maker of the World's Best Rod! Investment grade cane fly fishing rods of the highest quality - Houston TX

Keone Rodsmiths - Handmade Bamboo Fly Rods by Danny Heus. Danny offers his hollowed, quadrate bamboo fly rods in three model lines, Emotion, Suave and Paradigm with either a Tung oil or varnish finish - Spijkenisse, Netherlands

Lamiglas, Inc. - A complete selection of titanium graphite, graphite and fiberglass fly fishing rods and rod blanks - Woodland, WA

Loop Tackle Design - Swedish-made fly rods. While they manufacture many different models, their Blue Series Salt is expressly designed for the rigors of saltwater angling - Åkersberga, Sweden

March Brown Ltd. - A new rod manufacturer specializing in high performance fly rods for travel. Three model lines are available (including several saltwater multiple piece travel rods which will arrive at the end of June.) The March Brown three part guarantee: 100% satisfaction guaranteed, 100% lifetime guaranteed, and 100% Lowest Price Guaranteed - Brighton, MA

Musconetcong River Creations (MRC) - Hand-crafted custom fishing rod cases made from 100% select and figured solid hardwoods - no veneers. At last, a rod case that looks as good as your split bamboo or custom graphite fly rod - Washington, NJ

Orvis Company - Bamboo and graphite fly fishing rods, cases and accessories. Rod models include the T3, TLS, Superfine, Clearwater and Bamboo series - Manchester, VT

Pflueger Fishing Tackle - Fly Fishing Rods, Reels and Fishing Vests. A Shakespeare company - Columbia, SC

Powell Products, Inc - Tiburon Series titanium / boron graphite fly rods. The worldwide leader in premium fly rod manufacturing - Novato, CA

Quarrow - 2-section Graphite Composite Fly Fishing Rods and 3- & 4-section Travel Fly Rods - Broken Arrow, OK

Redington - Wayfarer, RS2, Red.Fly and Crosswater Fly Fishing Rods in 2-, 3- or 4-piece rod options - Bainbridge Island, WA

R. B. Meiser Fly Rods - Saltwater fly rods include the SHX series; ultra fast, light weight, extreme fly rods capable of delivering heavy flies while utilizing a variety of advanced line systems. Designed for the angler who targets the toughest game fish - Medford, OR

R.L. Winston Rod Co. - Fine fly fishing rods since 1929. Saltwater models are available in the IBIS, LTX, BL5, XTR and Spey series lines - Twin Bridges, MT

Sage - Fly rods to fit your home waters - Rods, reels, blanks, fly lines, rod & reel cases and accessories.

Scott Fly Rod Company - Every Scott rod is handcrafted in our shop. High performance graphite rods with Portuguese cork rings and hand-fitted internal ferrules. Saltwater models include the STS, S3S and ARC series rods - Montrose, CO

St. Croix - Legend Elite®, Legend Ultra®, Avid™, Imperial™ and Pro Graphite™ Fly fishing Rods. All St.Croix rods have a lifetime warranty and are handcrafted in the USA - Park Falls, WI

Temple Fork Outfitters - Affordable high performance Fly Rods. Manufacturers of the Lefty Kreh signature Series I, Professional and TiCr fly fishing rods. Our NO-FAULT WARRANTY on all our rods is for the life of the original registered owner - Dallas, TX

Thomas & Thomas Rodmakers - Vector Series, Horizon Series & Double-Handed Series saltwater fly rods, large arbor reels and accessories

Fly Rods

Although the earliest fly rods were made from ash, lancewood, greenheart and other hardwoods, the first "designed" fly rods were made from calcutta cane, in the 1850's. Rods made from tonkin cane became popular in the early 1900's and even today, literally dozens of skilled artisans hand-make six-strip split tonkin cane fly rods, precision works of art which command prices in the $1000. price range. In spite of their tradition and attractiveness however, cane rods are quite heavy and demand exceptional care to prevent damage from the elements. Over the past half century first fiberglass and then graphite has captured the fly rod market, although there have been brief spurts of popularity for other materials such as steel, beryllium-copper and boron. Early graphite fly rods had their problems as rod manufacturers wrestled with the characteristics of this new material. One of the most persistent problems was that graphite fibers could be made relatively stiff or strong, but not both. Now, after 20 years of joint development by the materials scientists of the aerospace industry and the design and manufacturing experts in the rodmaking industry, the modern graphite fly rod is a reliable, high-performance tool for casting and catching fish.

For saltwater fly fishing in Cancun and Isla Blanca Mexico, the best models for all-around use would be 8-1/2 to 9 feet in length and designed to cast either a 7-, 8- or 9 weight line. Some fly fishers use shorter, specialty rods when their primary object is to cast very tight line loops under and between overhanging mangrove branches. 10-foot and longer rods do offer the advantage of achieving higher backcasts (to clear rearward obstructions), but their added length and weight make them attractive mainly to really strong, expert casters who can tap their potential for long distance casts. Fly fishers who fish primarily in wind-protected areas for smaller fish can manage quite nicely with rods designed for use with 4-, 5-, or 6-weight lines. Anglers venturing out for tarpon in the 40-150 pound range would be advised to equip themselves with rods designed for 10-, 11-, 12- or even up to -15 weight lines. Lefty Kreh once said that light rods in the 1-5 weight range were designed primarily for delicate presentation when casting, that medium rods in the 6-9 weight range were designed for long casts, and rods in the 10-15 weight range were designed to lift and fight heavy, hooked fish.

Even if an angler decides on a particular length and line weight, his or her choices are just beginning. At the outset, a decision must be made as to how much money is to be spent on this fly rod. New fly rods are typically priced between $100 and $500. I would be suspicious about any rod priced considerably under $100; either it will be overly heavy, difficult to cast, without adequate warranty or of marginal structural integrity. On the other hand, if you're just starting out in saltwater fly fishing, you might not want to make make the $500 investment until you're more confident of your preferences. When you buy a fly rod in the $500 range. you're getting a product which is probably very light (and therefore less tiring to use), constructed from the latest in high-tech graphite and resin technology, capable of relatively long-distance casts and backed up by a very liberal warranty against breakage. Keep in mind though that these high-performance casting tools are usually designed with a relatively small margin between the stresses of expected usage and the strength at which the rod will break. That's why they are so light and why they have liberal warrantees and attendant high prices. Another key decision is whether your fly rod should be of 2, 3 or 4 pieces. One-piece and five-piece saltwater rods are basically unnecessary and rare. 20 or 30 years ago, I would have unhesitatingly recommended 2-piece rods for all applications, since at that time the tip ferrules for 3-and 4-piece rods were rather heavy and they destroyed the smooth action of the rod. Today, manufacturers have modified the rod tapers and designed the ferrules so that their action is uninterrupted and just as good as the 2-piece versions. If you are likely to be doing any airline traveling with your fly rod, I would strongly urge you to spend the extra $20-$50 for a 3- or 4-piece fly rod and gain a lot in convenience.

Perhaps the next and probably the most difficult choice is in selecting the rod with the best "action". This is a highly subjective issue and one which is fraught with problems of semantics. Personally, I like to think of rod action as being fast, medium or slow, recognizing that there dozens of actions between these three types and many other special characteristics labeled as "parabolic", "progressive", etc. The basic problem here is to select a rod action which best suits your casting style. If a true beginner, this will not be an easy matter. In this case my suggestion is to get some casting lessons from a fly fisher that is both a good caster and a good teacher. If he or she is competent, you will be coached into a casting stroke that will permit you to cast reasonably well, though not necessarily optimum. Also, a good instructor should be able to advise you whether to buy a rod that approximates or differs from the action of the rod used during instruction. Then, with your new-found skills, go to a good fly shop and test cast the various rods that meet your length/line weight/price criteria. With some experimentation you should begin to lean toward one or two rods that feel pretty good during casting. I cannot overemphasize however the need for some preliminary casting help, in order to put yourself in the position of being able to make worthwhile judgements. Whatever you do, don't ever buy a fly rod without first casting that same model.

Along with test casting, it's also a good idea to develop a feel for rod action in the fly shop. To evaluate rod action, hold the cork grip firmly in both hands, parallel to the floor and at waist height. Now wiggle the rod from side to side firmly until you establish a rhythm that produces rod deflection curves like that depicted in the Wiggle-Test sketch. A fast action rod will assume a shape like curve A and will also oscillate at a frequency (cycles/second) which would be noticeably faster than for a slow-action rod. Another way to evaluate rod action is to assemble rod, reel and line, hold the rod grip fairly horizontal and hang a weight of a few ounces at the end of the line. The resulting rod bending curve, like the Rod-Loading , sketch will be similar to that achieved in the Wiggle-Test and will also closely replicate the rod bending curve during actual casting at that level of loading.

Now, in practical terms, what does all that mean? Well, first of all, a fast-action rod will have to be cast "faster"; i.e. the caster's hand and arm will have to move back and forth faster than with a slow-action rod, so as to be synchronized with the rod's inherent bending frequency. I have found that shorter people, who usually have shorter casting strokes, seem to prefer fast action rods because they can achieve higher line speeds in a shorter period of time. Let me digress a bit to explain that.

Contrary to the claims of some writers, a fly rod has no power of its own, other than the stored energy released when the rod recoils from its flexed position. My experiments have indicated that the extent of this stored energy is quite minimal when compared to the kinetic energy imparted to the rod tip and line by the angler's casting stroke just before rod flex recoil.

A fly rod is after all simply a long lever connected to angler's body linkages, its length and flexibility amplifying the motion of the hand from perhaps 2-3 feet to about 15-20 feet of rod tip motion. Over the same span of time, this means that the rod tip is traveling over 6 times faster than the hand! The rod's flexibility also converts the somewhat rotary motion of the rod butt to a rather straight-line motion of the rod tip. Unless the rod tip is traveling in a straight line, the line (which follows the rod tip) will develop waves, reducing distance and accuracy. Straight line rod tip motion is depicted on the Casting sketch. It can be demonstrated that if a caster pushes a slow-action rod too hard during his stroke, the inertia of the rod tip and extended line will cause the rod tip to dip downward creating vertical waves which will ruin the cast. Thus, if a short caster needs to push the rod that hard in order to achieve a high line speed in a short period of time, he or she should try a faster action rod, which is more able to keep up the pace. Conversely, I have noticed that many tall fly fishers will gravitate toward medium- or slow- action rods since they have a longer stroke and much more time to develop high line speeds without pushing too hard. Notwithstanding, fly fisher anatomy is only one factor involved. Some casters, short or tall, just like to wave the rod back and forth real fast and therefore the fast-action fly rod is the best tool for them. You, the caster/customer have to be the final judge on what rod action is best for you!

Having perhaps belabored the subject of rod action too much, let's wrap up this chapter with a discussion on fly rod accessories. Fly rods have line guides throughout most of their length to distribute the loading of the flexed rod and to guide the line in a more or less straight line as it is shoots out during the cast delivery. Most fly rods nowadays have an adequate number of guides for this purpose and reasonably appropriate guide spacing. The biggest differences between rods can be in the guide design and materials.. The last two guides closest to the grip should, however, employ large ceramic ring guides, to gradually funnel the line down when the line is being pulled out during the casting delivery. The first stripping guide will get a lot of abrasion from dirt on the line, and the hard ceramic ring can withstand this abrasion for a long time. It is most important that all guides be made so as to resist corrosion from the marine environment. Chrome-plated stainless steel seems to work very well, but titanium and titanium nitride coatings are even better, especially in the tip-top, which is subject to considerable abrasion from the line. I have experimented with the single-foot ceramic-ring guides and they have worked out OK, but are more apt to get bent or damaged in rough usage. A hookkeeper, near the front of the grip, is a good feature as long as its design will not permit the line from catching on it during the run of a fish.

Almost all good fly rods come with cork grips, the standard of the industry. Cork has a comfortable surface, is easily cleaned and enough resiliency to facilitate fish fighting. Grip shape is a strictly personal preference, but many of our fly fishers prefer the full-wells

design, where there is an enlarged middle section to grasp, a flared front section for resting the thumb during casting and a flared rear section to accommodate an up-locking style of reel seat. Reel seats should definitely be of the screw-locking type, not the sliding-band type common in light, freshwater fly rods. Either up-locking or down-locking models are fine, though I sort of prefer the up-locking approach because it moves the reel's center of gravity closer to my hand, minimizing torque during casting. Anodized aluminum is fairly standard for reel seats, although titanium reel seats are decidedly better. I would recommend that your fly rod have an end-padded extension butt rearward of the reel seat, either permanent or removable. Whenever you are fighting a fish in excess of 5 pounds, it's real convenient to jam the butt into your waist area to get additional leverage and ease the wear and tear on your hand and wrist. The extra length is also helpful when you're bracing the reel seat area under your forearm for additional leverage.

Selecting a Saltwater Fly Rod